Keep at it

Well after this stuff up with the sanding stick,I have decided to make up the correct stick and re sand the linings.

This will reduce the width of the sides by a fraction,( about 2 mm I think) but I really don't think it should matter to the end results - I HOPE!

The things that I have stuffed up so far -

Cut the tail block flush.This should have been slightly longer than the sides even though Stewmac say they should be flush - Easier to reduce than add!

Small gap in join at the tail block end - Take a bit more time or use another method -Jig of some sort so you can see the end.

Lining breaking - ?????

Sanding stick wrong - Think about what I am doing.And get some advise if not sure (before hand)!

Sanding board pic - explain

This is the pic of the sanding board I made and used to sand the kerfing.

I made this as described (or the way I read it) in Stewmac's 000 instructions.

I cut the 2 wedges 8 inches long and at 5 deg and 1 1/2 deg.

I then glued them on to a 2 ft long board .

The concen I had was that in the Stewmac Dreadnaught instructions,it says to make the angle from the centre of the sandpaper to the end of the wedge ,which would be over a length of about 20 inches.

I made the angles over the length of the wedge - 8 inches.... Which makes the sanding angle less than 5 deg and 1 1/2 deg

I hope this makes some kind of sence??

I think Ted's comment might be right,I should stop worrying about the "small" things and just get it done!

Not happy and confused

Well after my last post I had a better look at the kerfing that I finished.
I have a slight gap on one side where the waist clamp was.

At the time I couldn't see it and because of the waist clamp, was unable to get a peg on that part of the kerfing.
http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/threads.php?id=906_0_2_0_C

The other thing thats bugging me is Stewmacs Sanding Stick.I made one up as per their manual .

I cut the 2 wedges , 200mm (8 inches) long. One I made 5 deg and the other 1.5 deg .So far so good -So I thought?

I was having a bit of a look at Bills KIT GUITAR BUILDING site,and found an article on the sanding stick.

In this article it sais to make the angle from the centre of the sand paper to the end near the wedge.

This would give a true/closer 5 deg and 1.5 deg at the sanding area.

Using Stewmac's description,the angle would be a bit less and flatter.

I have put a post on Bills site http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/threads.php?id=905_0_6_0_C , to get some clarification.I reckon I might be missing something somewhere ,

Every thing made sense when I read the instructions for the first 20 times,and this is the easy part!

Kerfing finished and sanding board made

Got home at reasonable hour tonight so I finished of the kerfing and made up the sanding board.

I wasn't real happy with the kerfing.!

It was so simple but I ended up with about 4 joins due to it breaking.

Oh well see how it comes out after I sand it.

Kerfing,and bloody pegs

Well first up I appreciate Ted's comments on the tail block gap.
I was kind of more disapointed than anything but I am sure things like this will be on-going ,especially when we try to squash the building in with all the other things that are going on!

Anyway,went out to get some "STRONG" cloths pegs today.Pretty easy you would reckon,but all I found was cheap garbage that would be lucky to hold a sock on a line.

Anyway another trip down to the Hardware.They have some small spring clamps that I think will work better.

The other drama I have had (and I know others have had) is the kerfing keeps breaking around the waist curve.I have posted the question up on http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/threads.php?id=893_0_6_0_C
to see what the guys have to say about a solution.

Clamps off,Not Happy!

Well I removed the clamps today only to find that the tail block join has a gap in it of about 1mm.

I think the grease proof got caught in the join.Its not a lot and I am sure I can fill it ,but its really annoying,especially after getting it all sit up ,and taking my time in the first place.

In thinking about it,I should have left the neck block longer and that way I wouldn't have had to worry about getting it flush with the top.

I also think if you were using a mould,it would be easier.Too Late !